Thanksgiving by the Sea
Thanksgiving traditions began many years ago with people gathering to give thanks for a good harvest, and it was President Lincoln who later established it as a national holiday. Ever since, people throughout the South have been celebrating with pumpkin festivals, apple festivals, and on the coast, we have our shrimp and seafood festivals in tribute to our harvests from the sea.
Local oystermen fill the tidal creeks at low tide each day, and fishermen enter the harbor at dawn in perfect testimony to our ongoing reliance upon the sea and all its bounty. Gone now is the autumn foliage, along with summer tourists. The damp chill of the ocean is everywhere, with its sometimes piercing shiver, reminding us of what it must have been like in the 18th century, when locals scurried back to their homes to snuggle around coal burning fireplaces.
Our local farmers' markets vegetables signal the end of the farm season by offering up local brussels sprouts still on the stalk, salt-misted turnip greens, kale, parsnips and spinach. Soon to close their stands until spring, we beckon them goodbye for now.
For all who choose to stay here and savor Thanksgiving on our sea islands, there is an overwhelming sense of appreciation for the preservation of what is best about our country and this region's rich endowment of natural beauty. Our Thanksgiving meal is just one small part of all there is to be grateful for on the Atlantic-splashed shores of this special place.
Thanksgiving Dressing
Good dressing all starts with delicious cornbread. Cornbread is as close to religion in the South as any one particular food gets, except perhaps barbecue. At the top of the list of cornbread sins is adding sugar, because once sugar is added, it becomes "Yankee cornbread." As Chef Frank Stitt of Birmingham's famed restaurant, Bottega, is quick to tell us, "corn bread is a hearty, rustic, humble Southern tradition."
Quality corn bread requires three key ingredients:
. Cornmeal-freshly milled organic cornmeal is the number one choice
. Buttermilk-a sacred ingredient in the South.
. Bacon fat-rendered bacon fat makes for a unique eating experience, and the key thing is to really heat up the bacon fat until super hot, and then mix it into the batter.
I always cook my cornbread in an old well-seasoned cast iron skillet. This old skillet is one of my most treasured possessions. My personal return to cast iron began several years ago after reading warning labels against preheating chemically treated pans and putting them in hot ovens which could create potentially harmful fumes. Since you cannot brown food unless you preheat your skillet, those pans are not for me. And, I often transfer food from stovetop to oven. So cast iron, ever so humble, in my opinion, outshines the fancy pans. Well-seasoned, they are nearly as nonstick as any manufactured nonstick surface. All it requires for clean up is hot water and a stiff brush. Besides, cast iron is inexpensive and can be found at just about any hardware store.
Furthermore, cast iron pans distribute heat evenly, which you will really love if switching from stainless steel or aluminum. When it comes to cookware, new is not necessarily better.
Here's my tried and true recipe for delicious Southern Buttermilk Cornbread. It's okay to use store-bought cornbread; just make sure it is not sweet. Adapted from Frank Stitt's Southern Table
Southern Buttermilk Cornbread
2 cups self-rising yellow cornmeal
Ω cup all-purpose flour
æ cup whole milk?
æ cup buttermilk
Ω cup rendered bacon fat (can substitute with 7 Tbsps butter)
1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten
Thankgsgiving Dressing
Serves 6-8.
Over the years, whether I've done Thanksgiving at home or gone elsewhere, I've loved making bread stuffing-a combination of freshly made bread crumbs, lots of creamy butter, and a good shot of real herbs. To vary the dressing, you may add dried fruit, cooked chestnuts, crumbled sausage, or mushrooms cooked with scallions, or any combination of these.
This stuffing remains light and crumbly and has a great texture. And, I love the combination of white bread and cornbread, along with fresh and dried herbs. It's one recipe you'll keep in your Thanksgiving arsenal forever!
4 cups day-old buttermilk cornbread
1 whole loaf Ciabatta bread (about 2 cups)
æ cup Panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
Ω cup butter (1 stick)
1 whole onion, finely diced
2 cups celery, finely chopped
2 cups chicken broth
1 Tbsp sage
Ω tsp thyme
Ω cup fresh parsley, chopped
Ω tsp kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 eggs, beaten
Begin by cutting the loaf of Ciabatta bread and the cornbread into 1-inch cubes. Do this ahead of time in order to have plenty of time to air dry the cubes. After about 24 hours they become crusty and hard (or you can spread them out on a baking sheet and pop them into a warm oven for about 30 minutes to dry them out).
Warm up a heavy skillet over low heat and add one stick of butter. Watch carefully in order not to burn. Once melted add the onion and celery and cook over low to medium heat until the onions are translucent. While it's cooking, prepare fresh herbs.
Add 2 cups of chicken broth until everything is moist (you may have to add a little extra) and bring to a boil. Add the herbs, salt and freshly ground black pepper, and thoroughly combine.
Place all dried bread cubes into a large bowl and mix them up. Gradually add the broth mixture into the cubes and toss lightly. Continue gradually adding the broth mixture. Now add the beaten eggs and toss to combine.
Either stuff the turkey (be sure to remove the giblet bag from the cavity of the turkey) and bake according to directions, or place the stuffing in a 9x13 baking dish and bake at 350∞ for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown on top.
Magical Poweers of Cast Iron
Follow two simple rules for great cast iron cooking: Season it properly and never, ever wash it! Break either rule and you are simply not worthy of possessing these pans. It's simple to turn a new cast iron pot or skillet into an heirloom. Here's how its done:
Take the new piece of cast iron and rinse and dry it thoroughly. Place in a warm oven for an hour or so to insure it is thoroughly dried out. Using a rag, take some kosher salt and scrub the inside of the pot, making sure to scrub both the sides and bottom. Dump out the salt.
Preheat oven to 350∞. While the oven is preheating, coat the pan with lard or vegetable oil, inside and out, including the handle. Be sure to really rub the fat into the iron. Place the pan on a cookie sheet because some of the fat will run off. Place the pan in the hot oven for about an hour. Once the pot has completely cooled it is ready for use.
Clean up: Never, ever use soap. Detergents have degreasers and will reverse the seasoning process. Instead, use coarse kosher salt as you did before seasoning, dumping out the salt. Then rub in just a little more fat to coat the interior of the pan.
Potato Gruyere Casserole
Yields 8-10 servings.
The potatoes in this recipe are parboiled in whipping cream. Then they are layered with a mixture of mushrooms and leeks and topped off with Gruyere cheese. This gives the potatoes great texture and flavor, while the cheese gets toasty on the top. This is such a rich and satisfying side dish.
º cup olive oil
4 cups leeks, chopped fine
1Ω pounds assorted mushrooms
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into thin slices
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 tsp kosher salt
Ω tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 cup grated Gruyere cheese
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the leeks and sautÈ until soft and lightly browned. Add mushrooms and sprinkle with salt and pepper. SautÈ until soft and the liquid evaporates, about 8 minutes. Add garlic, sautÈ 1 minute and set aside.
Preheat oven to 375∞. Using a dishtowel, pat potatoes dry. Combine the cream, salt and pepper in a large pot. Add potatoes. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Simmer until cream is reduced to about half and potatoes are partially cooked, stirring often and keeping a close watch not to scald.
Prepare a 9x13 inch casserole dish with butter. Transfer half of potato mixture to the dish, spreading out in an even layer. Spoon mushroom mixture over in an even layer. Spoon remaining potato mixture over the mushroom layer evenly. Sprinkle cheese over the top. Cover with foil, making a tent in the center to prevent the cheese from sticking to the foil. Bake 30 minutes. Uncover. Bake until potatoes are tender and the top is brown, about 20 to 25 minutes longer. Let rest 10 minutes before serving.
Oyster-Crab Bisque
Serves 6-8.
As we celebrate Thanksgiving in our seaside communities, let's pay homage to the bounty of the sea. This Oyster-Crab Bisque is an elegant way to begin the festivities. I suggest serving just a small cup while gathered around a roaring fire just to tempt the appetite.
3 (12 oz) containers standard
oysters, undrained
1 cup onion, chopped fine
Ω cup celery, chopped fine
Ω cup green bell pepper, chopped fine
2 cloves minced garlic
Ω cup all-purpose flour
1 (14.5 oz) can chicken broth
Ω tsp dried thyme
1 bay leaf
Ω cup green onions, chopped fine
1 can (12 oz.) evaporated fat-free milk
1 lb lump crabmeat, all shells and cartilage removed
º tsp kosher salt
º tsp black pepper, freshly ground
Place a colander over a bowl to drain the oysters, reserving the liquid. In a large Dutch oven add onion, celery, bell pepper and garlic, and sautÈ on medium-high for 5 minutes. Lightly spoon the flour into a measuring cup and level with a knife. Gradually add the flour to the onion mixture. Cook for 1 minute while stirring. Gradually add the reserved oyster liquid and the chicken broth, stirring with a whisk until blended. Stir in the thyme and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Add oysters, green onions and milk, and cook several minutes until edges of the oysters begin to curl. Gently stir in crabmeat, salt and pepper, and continue to cook until thoroughly heated. Discard the bay leaf. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper.
Thanksgiving Bread Basket
Savory pumpkin biscuits were a great surprise for me. They are not too desserty, but instead are just the right amount of savory goodness. These work well for both breakfast and dinner, and that luscious orange color will make you smile.
2Ω cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 stick unsalted butter, very cold and cut into small pieces
2Ω Tbsps brown sugar
orange zest from 1 orange
1 can (15 oz) unsweetened
pumpkin puree
2 Tbsps heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 400∞. Prepare the baking sheet with butter. Sift the flour, baking powder, salt and brown sugar together into a medium bowl. Cut in the butter with your fingers or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles very course meal. Stir in the pumpkin and orange zest to make a soft dough.
With floured hands and a well-floured working surface, pat the biscuit dough to Ω inch thick. Cut out using a biscuit cutter and place the biscuits on the baking sheet. Gather any scraps of dough and pat out Ω inch thick, and cut out as many biscuits as possible.
Take a pastry brush and brush the tops of the biscuits lightly with cream. Bake until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Yields about 36 biscuits when using a 2-inch biscuit cutter.