Daufuskie

Daufuskie Island is a barrier island halfway between Hilton Head and Savannah out in the Calibogue Sound. Accessible only by water, the island's last tally counted 491 residents living on the five-mile paradise, where golf carts rule the road and traffic jams are non-existent. Protected by its bridgelessness, the island is only ten percent developed. Sometimes described as a "diamond in the rough", it has a wild, unspoiled look that stands in sharp contrast to communities trying to look natural. People on Daufuskie would like to retain that unique look, and at the same time, develop the economy and island infrastructure for the future. It's tricky business, walking the tightrope between growth and preservation.

Preserving Daufuskie's past, with the present for the future is the current vision of its many movers and shakers. For decades, Daufuskie has been left to its own solutions, a political outpost in Beaufort County. But "times, they are changing." Two years ago, residents elected an Island Council to help Daufuskie with state and local issues. Daufuskie needs an improved ferry system, updated waste disposal, and public parks. While islanders struggle with these complex issues, chairman Bill Greenwood noted, "We're learning how to work with each other. We just put our shoulders together and move forward in one direction."

Volunteers have formed non-profit groups like the Island Conservancy and the Binyah foundation to help conserve water usage, and bolster tourism and the economy. Others donate their time to writing grants and restoring homes in the central Historic District. Even the children help with the feral cat program and community farm. For young and old, volunteering is a way of life, islanders aim to preserve its rich history and environment.

The south end is called Bloody Point, the southernmost tip of Beaufort County, closest to Georgia. Named for the 1715 battle between colonists and Yemassee Indians, it is said, "the rivers ran red with blood". Walking the beach, I considered the war story. There was a cemetery nearby. Was it my imagination, or did I sense spirits around me? Looking south, I saw Georgia's Tybee Island lighthouse, took in the hazy skyline of Fort Pulaski. I squinted to sight oystercatchers on Bird Island, but they were too well camouflaged. A juvenile eagle brought my focus back to the beach. It settled on the sand, while its parents scolded from above. He flew away. I saw why. Three riders on horseback were moseying by in the opposite direction.

Daufuskie's storied history has earned the entire island a spot on the prestigious National Register of Historic Places. There are tabby ruins, old cemeteries, and two Gullah/Geechee communities, which were formed after the Civil War. Indian shell middens mark the marshes and date human occupation back several thousand years. Then there is the Mary Fields School where author Pat Conroy taught and wrote about in The Water is Wide. The school is closed now, but still used for church and civic meetings.

Daufuskie's "boom years" were during the first half of the 1900s when islanders farmed the land and harvested oysters. The 1,000 islanders were primarily descendants of slaves freed after the Civil War. They formed a benevolent society called the Oyster Union Hall, where moonshine and charity mixed freely on Saturday nights. For 70 years, the men harvested and the women shucked, but pollution closed the beds in 1959. Islanders moved away, and by 1985, fewer than 50 people lived on Daufuskie.
I recently had the pleasure of meeting one of those islanders, Flossie Washington. Miss Flossie has lived most of her 86 years on Daufuskie with her husband Jake, now deceased, but once dubbed "the unofficial mayor" back in the day. Miss Flossie is well-known for her crab-cake recipe. When I tried to wheedle it from her, she only smiled and said, "I just give it to my daughter." Even recipes are preserved.

Island community spirit was in the doldrums after the U.S. economy crashed in 2008. Daufuskie was hit hard. People were stuck there and couldn't find work. Pat Beichler knew the solution. "Nothing brings people together like a farm, let's build a farm."

And so they did. Land was donated, money raised, and water and electricity installed. Local trees were transformed into barns for chickens, turkeys, goats and guineas, that patrol for pests. Robin and Fred Townsend presented a star-studded, Kastdemur buck to the farm so islanders could have gourmet quality goat cheese. People work in exchange for fresh eggs, cheese and vegetables. Locals sense a change in the air, a community forming, just like Miss Pat said it would.

Daufuskie, clearly visible from Harbourtown, is flanked on both ends by two light range houses that once guided ships to Savannah when steamers ruled the waterways. The Haig Point house is on the north, Bloody Point on the south, and both have been restored. Bloody Point's range house is home to Mary and Joe Yocius. Joe operates the Silver Dew Winery in the old brick "wick-house," which was once the base of the Bloody Point light tower. Papy Burns was its last Lightkeeper, and though he is long gone, Joe still talks about the legendary keeper and his scuppernong wine.

You could say, the spry spirit of Papy Burns still burns in the passionate spirit of Daufuslie Islandsers.

For ferry schedule and travel information go online to www.daufuskietourism.com