Plant, Grow, Bloom

April 2025 Issue

“Spring is nature’s way of saying, ‘Let’s Party!‘“
— Robin Williams —

Camellias, azaleas and red bud trees…oh my!
What a stunning, colorful show spring brings, beckoning us to grab our gardening gloves, go outside, and play in the dirt. Not only is gardening a healthy hobby, it also offers rewards that can be enjoyed year round. Whether you’re a novice or a master gardener, there is always more to learn about what to plant where and when. That’s why we asked the experts to share some of their best knowledge.

By Suzanne Barton | The Green Thumb

When should I cut back azaleas, camellias, evergreen shrubs, and Loropetalums. Is pruning important?
In order to maintain the health and beauty of shrub plantings proper pruning is paramount. When done correctly it can help improve shape, thin twiggy growth, reduce size, and encourage new healthy growth and flowering. Knowing when to take the tools out and trim is the key to success. 


Flowering plants should be pruned when their blooming period has ended. Most azaleas will finish in the spring, Loropetalum in the late spring to early summer. Camellia japonica bloom late winter/early spring, and Camellia sasanqua bloom late fall/early winter. Following your plants bloom time will point to the correct pruning window. 
Evergreen shrubs are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Be sure not to prune too early and risk tender new growth getting hit by a late frost. Keep an eye on the long-range weather forecast to alleviate this issue.


Please give us suggestions for 5 hardy blooming flowers
for full-sun and 5 for shade.

Here are my favorites for a sunny, colorful garden:
Salvia: Offers a wide range of colors, flower form and mature sizes, attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. All varieties are deer and rabbit resistant.

Annual Vinca: A true summer workhorse, vinca is heat and drought tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant, and flowers from spring until frost. 

Lantana: Heat, drought, humidity and salt tolerant. Attracts pollinators. Deer and rabbit resistant. 

Echinacea: Great cut flower. Seeds for the birds in fall.
Canna lily: Height, tropical foliage and gorgeous blooms that attract pollinators.


Here are some favorites perfect for shade gardens.
Impatiens: In single and double form are a classic for shade.
Mona lavender plectranthus: Great for both its beautiful flowers and dramatic dark foliage.
Fuchsia: Adds dainty, whimsical flowers to the cool garden.
Torenia: Attracts hummingbirds and has both trailing and upright forms.
Begonias: Another classic shade performer.

Happy gardening!

By Sue Fehr | The Greenery

Which blooming plants are most deer resistant?
Hungry deer will eat almost anything. Unfortunately, the term deer-resistant does not mean deer proof! Only a barrier or an 8’ fence will deer proof your yard. You can minimize damage by selecting the right plants. In general, deer avoid fuzzy foliage, strong-scented plants, and plants with lemon, sage, mint or spicy tastes.

Flowering annuals include:
• Angelonia x blue daze
• Lobularia (sweet alyssum) x marigold
• Melampodium x snapdragon
• Scaevola x verbena
• flowering vinca

Flowering perennials include:
• Agastache x Amsonia
• Asclepius (milkweeds) x Farfugium japonicum (tractor seat)
• Baptisia x Helleborus (Lenten rose)
• Iris x Lantana
• Salvia species x society garlic

Some flowering shrubs are:
• Abelia x banana shrub
• butterfly bush x bottle brush
• Cestrum x Galphimia
• Gardenia x Loropetalum
• Oleander x Tea Olive
• some Viburnums

Some vines and ground covers are:
• Ajuga x Gelsemium (Carolina jessamine)
• vinca

It is also recommended to spray plants with deer repellent
when first planted.

Fertilizing overwhelms me. What basics should I know?
Improving your soil will have a greater impact than adding fertilizer. Our soil is typically poor. Adding organic material, such as compost, manure, or tree leaves, is very important as it adds structure and nutrients. You can add nutrients to your existing plants by side dressing: spread a light layer (1/2-1 inch) of an organic material like compost around the drip line of each plant before putting down new mulch.

Fertilizer is often necessary, especially for lawns, but before committing to a particular one, you should have your soil tested by Clemson’s Agricultural Lab. (https://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag-srvc-lab/soil-testing/index.html) They will make recommendations based on the specific type of plant to be grown.

The main nutrients in fertilizer are NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). Our soil often has excessive phosphorus, so over-fertilization can be bad for the plant and the environment.

Is there anything I can do to combat the moles
waging war on my yard?
The mole lives and hunts for food under the soil, digging tunnels through the lawn in search of a nice meal of grubs, earthworms, or other insects. Poisoned gummy worms or pellets are not a choice as they may pose a hazard to humans and pets and may possibly enter the wildlife food chain. Mothballs do not work, and they are illegal to use, as it is considered a misuse of a pesticide.

The most effective way to get rid of moles is to trap them. This process is described in detail in the Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage handbook. (http://pcwd.info/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/1994_Moles.pdf) If you have a severe problem, professional wildlife control operators can do the job for a fee.

—————————— Meet the Masters ——————————

Sue Fehr works at The Greenery Garden Center on Hilton Head Island and is a Master Gardener. She is the co-leader of the Butterfly Garden volunteers at the Coastal Discovery Museum and contributor to “The Lowcountry Gardener, A Basic Guide to Garden Planning and Maintenance,” which will be available through the Lowcountry Master Gardener Association and at local nurseries this spring.

Suzanne Barton, manager of The Green Thumb on Hilton Head Island, has over 22 years of experience in the horticulture industry and a certified professional horticulturist accreditation. A sought-after speaker at horticulture trade shows and conferences across the country with commercial sets, galas, trade shows and private gardens in her design portfolio. “There is nothing more gratifying than knowing I was able to assist a client to make their gardens thrive.”